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It's Grass Seed Season - Sunday, October 30, 2011

Grass Seeds

Summer is coming and the grass is drying off. On every day for the next six months we will be removing a grass seed from some part of some pet. While this keeps us employed, it is not appreciated by pet owners and is a cause of great discomfort for our dogs and cats.

The seemingly innocuous grass seed is a well designed spear like foreign body. Ears, eyes, noses and toes are common places to lodge but they can find their way anywhere – and I mean anywhere.

In a recent case a dog inhaled a three headed grass seed. It punctured both lungs before penetrating the abdomen causing a peritoneal abscess. The specialist veterinary bill was over $3000. In another case a dog suffered from septic discospondylitis – an infection of the vertebrae caused by a grass seed that penetrated the skin and lodged in the spine.

Grass seeds have even been known to sprout inside the body. They cannot be broken down by the body defences and never dissolve.

Some breeds of dogs are better grass seed collectors than others. Just ask any Cocker Spaniel owner. Molly (pictured) had many visits to the vet – including one where she had a total of three grass seeds removed from both ears. Her owner had a protective cap made which she wears on all her walks. (Caps must be removed at all other times.) Since wearing the cap, Molly has not had any more grass seed problems.

Occasionally in cats a grass seed finds its way into the chest cavity and initiates a very serious infection called pyothorax. The seed causes a serious reaction and the space around the lungs fills with pus. This condition is fatal if not aggressively treated

Prevention is cheaper than cure. There are some things you can do to reduce the chances of your pet becoming a grass seed foreign body sufferer:
1. Avoid walking your dog through fields of long grass.
2. Regularly groom your pet and remove any grass seeds lodged in the coat.
3. Consider a set of boots if your dog is susceptible to grass seeds between the toes.
4. Make a cap to protect the ears during walks.

Finally, if your pet seems to have a grass seed in the ear, don’t pour oil into it! Come in and see us so it can be quickly removed before it penetrates the ear drum.
 

Tags: grass seed
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Snake bite - Sunday, October 30, 2011

Snake Bite

Each year more than 6000 pets in Australia are bitten by snakes. A disproportionate number of those cases occur around Perth. In the last month there has been a dramatic rise in the number of dogs and cats requiring treatment and this has prompted doctors at the Murdoch University Veterinary Hospital to issue a warning to all pet owners to be aware.

So at this time it is particularly worthwhile understanding how to recognise a snake bite and knowing what to do if your pet is bitten.

Recognising a snake bite is easy if the pet is found with the snake. “Schweppes” the Alaskan Malamute (pictured after recovery) was found struggling with a large Dugite. She collapsed soon after and was rushed in for treatment with anti-venom.Schweppes after recovery from snake bite

More often, the snake is never seen and it is only the onset of symptoms that arouses suspicion. Snake venom causes paralysis, bleeding disorders and tissue damage.

The most common types of venomous snakes we see are brown snakes (Dugites and King Browns) and Tiger Snakes, and rarely the Death Adder. The symptoms with each are very similar. They can include sudden collapse, weakness, paralysis, bleeding and difficulty breathing. These can occur soon after the bite but may take several hours or even longer – especially in cats.

Dogs and cats usually get bitten around the face or neck therefore the application of a pressure bandage is rarely a useful first aid measure. It is most important to get them to a veterinary surgery as soon as possible. If you are able, carry the patient to the car and keep them quiet and still. If they stop breathing en route then mouth to nose resuscitation will be required.

There is a specific anti-venom for each type of snake. If the snake is dead, bring it with you for identification. (Do not attempt to kill the snake yourself!) If not, we have a snake venom detection kit to enable administration of the correct anti-venom.

The best way to reduce the chances of a brown snake visiting your property is to keep control of rats and mice. Dugites are attracted to the smell of rodent urine and may travel several kilometres using their sensitive tongue to “taste” the smell in the air. If you keep birds, be careful how you dispose of surplus feed. Spilt seed is often the feed source for rodents who like to set up nests around aviaries.

Snake Identification

There is some excellent information on local snakes on Brian Bush's website here. 

Below is a picure of a juvenile dugite. It was brought to us after someone collected it in their pool scoop. Baby dugites do not usually hatch until the end of summer. This is probably a straggler from last year that has just emerged from winter dormancy.

Tags: snake bite
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Bobtails - Sunday, October 30, 2011

Bobtail Blues

By Jennie Swallow VN

Bobtail being weighed prior to surgery on his front legEver considered how fascinating our native bobtail lizard is? The advent of autumn brings the arrival of newborn bobtails throughout the bush. Sadly, however, bobbi numbers have fallen over recent years.

This decline is mainly due to the Bobtail Flu, a disease that is highly contagious among bobbies and can be fatal if left untreated. Symptoms include a loss of condition, pale gums, a clear discharge from the nose and eyes, or eyes that have become glued shut.

A healthy bobtail has a plump, stumpy tail in which food and moisture are stored. A flat, pointed tail indicates a seriously-ill bobbi.

Road trauma is another big killer for bobtails, as well as land clearing which affects their habitat and lifestyle. Even your own backyard can be fraught with danger as bobtails are easy prey, especially to dogs. Snail pellets will kill bobtails. Placing a saucer of salt in your yard is effective snail bait and will not harm friendly reptiles.

This prehistoric creature has some pretty admirable virtues such as a lifelong attachment to the same partner. Researchers have followed one monogamous couple for 17 years!

Bobtails give birth to live young that are almost as big as mum. The litter can collectively weigh up to 40% of her body mass.

If you see a sick or injured bobtail place it in a cardboard box and take it to the nearest vet. Be sure to note where you found the bobbi so it can be released back into its own territory after rehabilitation.

A Bobtail Lizard (photo courtesy of Kanyana Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre)

Despite its tiny teeth the bobtail has powerful jaws used for crushing snails and berries. One bite to your finger and you will know about it! To pick up a bobtail safely place your thumb and forefinger directly behind its head and enclose your hand around its body for support.

If you are unable to reach a vet, you can help protect this amazing reptile by knowing how to provide first-aid.

Place the bobbi in a pillowcase inside the box to protect it from flies, as fly blown wounds will cause a rapid death. Keep it in a cool room to slow the rate of dehydration. Leave a saucer of water inside the pillowcase. Do not attempt to syringe water into its mouth as this may injure the bobtail (or you), or cause it to lose further hydration through its resisting your efforts.

You may notice brown bush ticks attached under the bobtail's scales. These don't need to be removed as they pose no immediate danger to the bobbi.

Contrary to popular belief, a rescued bobtail should never be refrigerated. This will not halt the progression of illness or injury; rather, it will speed up the reptile’s dehydration.

Tags: bobtail, wildlife, flu
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Pre-anaesthetic Testing - Sunday, October 30, 2011

Pre-anaesthetic Testing

When you place your pet in our hands, you trust us to provide your pet with the best possible medical care. You expect us to provide you with advice which will allow you to make the best possible decision for your pet. ln order to offer you the peace of mind you deserve, we recommend pre-anaesthetic testing prior to placing your pet under anaesthetic.

As in human medicine, the anaesthetics available for anaesthetising our companion pets are extremely safe. As a result, the anaesthetic risk is greatly minimised when a 'healthy' pet is placed under anaesthetic. However, if your pet is not 'healthy', complications can occur both during and after the anaesthetic procedure. Therefore, in order to minimise potential risk associated with anaesthetic, it is vital for us to know the complete health status of your pet before placing him or her under anaesthetic.

Prior to anaesthetic, we will obtain a complete history and perform a detailed physical examination on your pet. While a history and physical examination provide us with important information about your pet's health, it is impossible to understand the complete physiological picture without pedorming other tests.

ln most cases, if a pet appears 'healthy' based on history and physical examination, an anaesthetic procedure will be uneventful. However, unlike humans, pets cannot tell us when they do not feel well. As a result of animals' instinct to protect themselves, often at times sick pets will 'hide' their illness. Therefore, an animal's appearance of health may be misleading. For example, a pet can lose up lo 75% of kidney function prior to showing any signs of illness. To understand your pet's overall health, it is crucial to derive additional information through testing prior to anaesthesia.

lf the results of the pre-anaesthetic tests are within normal ranges, we can proceed with confidence knowing the anaesthetic risk is minimised. On the other hand, if the results are not within the normal ranges, we may alter the anaesthetic procedure. ln some cases, we may proceed as planned, yet provide medical support during and after the procedure to ensure your pet's health. ln other cases, the test abnormalities may be significant enough to postpone the procedure in order to monitor and medically treat your pet.

Although performing these tests cannot guarantee the absence of complications, it can significantly minimise the risk to your pet and provide you and us with peace of mind.

lf you have any questions, please ask the veterinarian.

These are some of the tests which may be recommended for your pet.

Blood Chemistry
Blood chemistry tests provide information concerning your pet's vital organs, such as the kidneys, liver, pancreas, thyroid, parathyroid and intestinal tract. These tests can also indicate conditions such as anaemia and dehydration as well as endocrine diseases and certain types of tumours.

Complete Blood Count
The CBC provides information concerning the various types of blood cells. The red blood cells (RBC's) carry oxygen to the tissue of the body. White blood cells (WBC'S) are the body's primary defense against infection. Platelets play a major role in the blood clotting process and are essential for halting the bleeding process.

Urinalysis
The Urinalysis provides important information about the functioning capacity of the kidneys. ln addition, the urine contains by'prod ucts f rom many organs and abnormal levels of these by-products can indicate disease such as liver and kidney disease or diabetes.

Electrolytes
ln order to maintain life, the appropriate balance of electrolytes is vital. Certain diseases or conditions may result in electrolyte imbalances that could compromise a pet's health and ultimately become life threatening.

OtherTests
Depending on your pet's age, history and physical exam, an ECG (electrocardiogram) or serum thyroid levels may be recommended.
 

 

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Parvo virus - Sunday, October 30, 2011
 Parvovirus did not exist in dogs until the late 1970's. Now it is one of the most serious infectious diseases of dogs around Perth. You have probably heard about it because there are fairly frequent outbreaks and most dogs that get the disease will die if not treated. The virus survives for a long time in the environment and is easily carried around on contaminated objects such as footwear and clothing.Parvo virus under electon microscope

Fortunately there is a reliable vaccine available. Every puppy should be vaccinated by the age of 8 weeks. However, that does not always happen. Litters of puppies are sometimes sold after many people have been through to view them prior to purchase. They are put at great risk by the volume of contact with potential carriers of the disease. When it strikes it is often a day or so after they have been taken to a new home.

We have seen many outbreaks throughout the eastern hills and it is definitely an endemic disease that must be prevented. Once dogs become sick, treatment can be quite costly. They are usually in intensive care and in isolation for around three days. Only about 80% of dogs will survive even with the best of care.

Signs of parvovirus include, vomiting, diarrhoea or dysentery, dehydration, anaemia, weakness and collapse. Infected dogs also have a characteristic unpleasant smell.

Make sure your dog is protected. There is a three year vaccine available now for adult dogs. If you do not like to vaccinate unnecessarily, we can do a parvo titre blood test to see if your dog has sufficient antibodies. Puppies should be vaccinated thee times, 4 weeks apart starting at 6-8 weeks of age.

There is a lot more information on veterinary partner here: http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&C=&A=1199&SourceID=42
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